Microneedling sounds amazing—until you remember the needles. The redness. The downtime. Yikes. Not exactly a fun experience. If the thought of tiny needles puncturing your skin makes you wince, you’ve got company!
These days, plenty of skincare brands claim to offer a “needle-free microneedling experience”, promising the same collagen-boosting effects without the pain. But how much of that is real science and how much is just clever marketing?
That’s exactly what we’re going to uncover today. In this guide, we’ll break down how liquid microneedling works, its top benefits, and why it’s becoming the go-to alternative for pain-free skin rejuvenation. Plus, we’ll answer burning questions like “Are spicule skincare products safe?” and “Can I use spicule skincare if I have sensitive skin?” so you can decide if this needle-free trend is worth the hype.
Let’s dive in—no numbing cream required. 😉
What is Liquid Microneedling & How Does It Work?
Liquid microneedling is a non-invasive skincare innovation that delivers the benefits of traditional microneedling—stimulating collagen, refining skin texture, and enhancing ingredient absorption—without the use of physical needles. Instead of creating controlled micro-injuries with metal needles, liquid microneedling utilizes marine spicules, microscopic needle-like structures obtained from sea sponges.
The key to liquid microneedling’s effectiveness lies in marine spicules, nature’s version of micro-needles. But what exactly are marine spicules, and how do they work in skincare?
What Are Marine Spicules?
The ocean has long been a source of skin-enhancing compounds, and one of its most intriguing discoveries is marine spicules—tiny, needle-like structures that form the skeletal framework of marine sponges.
As marine sponges filter seawater for nutrients, they form spicules composed of silica dioxide (SiO₂), collagen, and trace amounts of calcium and phosphate ions—key components that provide them structural support and defense [1].
How Marine Spicules Work
Unlike traditional microneedling, which relies on metal needles to create controlled micro-injuries, marine spicules naturally embed into the skin, forming temporary microchannels that may improve the delivery of active ingredients. This mechanism is similar to spicule-based drug delivery systems, which have been shown to increase epidermal delivery of therapeutic molecules [6].
Key Benefits of Spicule Skincare
Let’s break down the science-backed benefits that make spicule skincare a breakthrough in modern dermatology.
🪡 Extended & Controlled Ingredient Release
💡A study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology explored how natural siliceous spicules improve the gradual and controlled delivery of active ingredients into the skin. Researchers infused pectolinarin, a plant-based antioxidant, into these spicules using a lecithin-based liposome system. Instead of releasing the ingredient all at once, the spicules slowly delivered pectolinarin over time, ensuring longer-lasting effects by following Fick’s Law of Diffusion and the Higuchi Model [5]. By following scientific diffusion models, they optimize the effectiveness of active ingredients while reducing the need for frequent reapplication—enhancing skincare performance without overwhelming the skin.
💡A separate study by Zhang et al. (2021) in Pharmaceutics supports this concept in a medical setting. Researchers used spicule-based delivery systems to administer insulin to diabetic rats. The results showed a sustained release over 8 hours, leading to a gradual reduction in blood glucose levels. While this study focused on treating diabetes, it highlights how spicules extend the release of active compounds, which could have similar benefits for skincare applications. However, more studies are needed to confirm these effects in cosmetic formulations.
🪡 Enhanced Ingredient Absorption
Spicules are more than just passive carriers—they actively enhance the skin’s ability to absorb and retain active ingredients, improving the effectiveness of skincare treatments. By creating temporary microchannels in the epidermis, they allow bioactive compounds to penetrate deeper and stay active longer, increasing their impact compared to traditional topical applications.
💡 Kim et al. (2022) demonstrated that spicules increased dermal absorption rates to 73.4% when combined with pectolinarin, a plant-based antioxidant known for its anti-inflammatory and protective benefits. This confirms that spicules efficiently transport and gradually release active ingredients, ensuring deeper penetration and prolonged action.
💡 Looking toward innovation, a recent patent suggests that diamond-coated spicules could further amplify ingredient absorption, with claims of a 187% increase in transdermal delivery compared to uncoated spicules. However, this claim has yet to be validated in independent, peer-reviewed studies, and further clinical research is necessary to confirm its full potential in skincare formulations [12].
🪡 A New Generation of Acne Treatment: Powerful Without Antibiotics
For decades, antibiotics have been the go-to solution for acne, but their overuse has led to a serious problem—bacterial resistance. As acne-causing bacteria evolve, these treatments become less effective, forcing individuals to turn to harsher medications with stronger side effects. This growing challenge has fueled the search for safer, long-term alternatives, and spicule-based skincare is emerging as a breakthrough solution.
💡 Research by He et al. (2024) demonstrated that sponge spicules significantly enhance the skin penetration of Sphistin12-38, an antimicrobial peptide (AMP) that directly targets acne-causing bacteria. Spicules increased its absorption by 6.1 times, allowing it to reach deeper layers of the skin—precisely where breakouts begin. Unlike antibiotics, which bacteria can develop resistance to over time, AMPs work differently: they break down bacterial membranes, making it nearly impossible for acne bacteria to adapt and survive.
This enhanced delivery translated into remarkable treatment results. In rabbit models, the combination of Sphistin12-38 and sponge spicules achieved a 100% acne cure rate, completely clearing lesions within just 14 days. Even more notably, in human clinical trials, a 1% spicule gel alone reduced acne lesions by 51.4% within the same timeframe. While further studies are needed to clarify the exact role of spicules in acne treatment, these findings highlight their potential as a game-changing, antibiotic-free approach to clearer skin [3].
🪡 Collagen Stimulation
Sponge spicules don’t directly boost collagen production, but they help deliver active ingredients that do.
💡 In a study on UV-damaged skin, exosomes—tiny bubbles released by cells that help with skin repair—had trouble penetrating the skin on their own. However, when combined with sponge spicules, their absorption increased nearly sixfold. This led to higher levels of collagen, elastin, and fibronectin, which are essential for firm, youthful skin. As a result, wrinkles became less visible, and the skin’s support structure (extracellular matrix) improved [11].
These results suggest that sponges act as carriers rather than direct collagen stimulators. While this approach shows promise for anti-aging treatments, more research is needed to confirm its long-term effects, ideal dosage, and effectiveness on human skin.
🪡 Gentler Than Traditional Microneedling
📍 No deep skin punctures
Unlike microneedling, which creates micro-injuries reaching the deeper layers of skin, marine spicules remain within the epidermis. This reduces the risk of scarring, prolonged irritation, and delayed healing while still enhancing skin renewal [8].
📍 Temporary & Self-Expelling
Unlike traditional microneedling, which creates controlled wounds that require healing, sponge spicules embed into the skin and are naturally expelled through epidermal turnover within approximately three days. During this period, they gradually release active ingredients without causing prolonged inflammation or significant tissue disruption [8][9].
📍 Mild exfoliation without harsh peeling
A rat study on Spongilla lacustris spicules found that they enhanced the exfoliation of the stratum corneum without causing visible irritation or structural damage [9]. However, more research is needed to determine if this effect translates to human skin.
📍 Improved skin penetration without irritation
Marine spicules increase the absorption of active ingredients while maintaining a favorable short-term safety profile. This makes them a gentle, non-invasive option for those with sensitive skin who may not tolerate traditional microneedling [5].
The Safety Profile of Spicule Skincare
While preliminary studies support their biocompatibility and permeability benefits, long-term safety data remains limited, and further research is needed to fully understand their effects—especially regarding their interaction with different active ingredients.
Final Thoughts: Is Liquid Microneedling the Next Big Thing?
The answer depends on your skincare goals. If you’re looking for a needle-free solution that improves skin texture, hydration, and absorption—without irritation or downtime—then yes, liquid microneedling is a breakthrough worth considering.
However, further research is needed to explore the long-term effects of repeated spicule use, optimal formulations for different skin types, and potential advancements in spicule-derived delivery systems. As scientific understanding grows, liquid microneedling could evolve into an even more powerful skincare technology.
With its proven ability to transform skincare efficacy, liquid microneedling isn’t just a passing fad—it’s reshaping how we think about skin renewal, ingredient delivery, and non-invasive rejuvenation. The future of skincare is here, and it doesn’t require needles.
Liquid Microneedling: Expert Answers to Your Top FAQs
Q: What is spicule skincare, and how does it work?
A: Spicule skincare is a non-invasive alternative to microneedling that uses marine sponge-derived spicules—microscopic, needle-like structures—to enhance skin renewal and boost ingredient absorption.
🔬 How It Works:
- These biodegradable micro-needles create temporary micro-channels in the skin.
- This improves the penetration of active ingredients (e.g., peptides, antioxidants) for up to 48 hours.
- The spicules are naturally exfoliated as the skin regenerates.
Q: How often should I use spicule skincare?
A: There are no official dermatology guidelines or clinical studies specifying the exact frequency of spicule skincare use. The best approach is to:
✔ Follow the product’s instructions – Manufacturers test their formulations for optimal usage and provide recommendations on frequency.
✔ Consult a dermatologist – Since spicule skincare works by creating micro-channels in the skin, professional guidance ensures safe and effective use tailored to your skin type.
✔ Ensure the product is FDA-approved or dermatologist-tested – This guarantees it has passed safety evaluations for consumer use.
Q: What should I expect after using a spicule skincare product?
A:
Immediate Sensations:
✔ Mild Tingling or Prickling – A slight prickly feeling as the spicules embed into the skin. This is a normal and expected response.
✔ Transient Redness – Some users report temporary redness, which typically fades within a few hours.
Short-Term Effects (Within 24–48 Hours):
✔ Enhanced Absorption – Micro-channels allow for better penetration of serums and actives [5].
✔ Temporary Sensitivity – Skin may feel slightly more sensitive, so avoid harsh exfoliants or retinoids.
Precautions:
⚠ Patch Test First – Apply on a small area before full use.
⚠ Use Sunscreen – Increased absorption can heighten sun sensitivity.
⚠ Monitor for Irritation – If redness or discomfort lasts beyond 48 hours, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.
Q: What are spicules made of? Are they natural?
A: Yes! Spicules are 100% natural and derived from marine sponges.
🧬 Composition:
✔ Silica (SiO₂) – A biodegradable mineral that creates micro-channels in the skin.
✔ Collagen & Minerals – Naturally occurring components in marine sponge skeletons.
🌱 Sustainability Concern? Many brands now use ethically sourced or lab-grown alternatives to reduce environmental impact.
Q: Can Spicule Skincare Help with Acne Scars and Hyperpigmentation?
A: Spicule skincare shows potential benefits for acne treatment, but its effectiveness for acne scars and hyperpigmentation has not been directly studied. A recent study by He et al. (2024) specifically investigated the use of sponge spicules (SHS) combined with the antimicrobial peptide Sphistin12-38 for reducing acne lesions. However, the study did not assess its effects on hyperpigmentation or acne scars, leaving its role in treating these concerns scientifically unverified.
While spicules are known to enhance ingredient penetration and promote skin renewal, there is currently no direct research confirming their ability to reduce pigmentation or acne scars. Additionally, their long-term impact on melanin regulation remains unclear, particularly for individuals with deeper skin tones, who may be more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Furthermore, the ideal active ingredients to pair with spicules for hyperpigmentation treatment have not been scientifically tested, making their efficacy in this area theoretical rather than clinically proven.
For now, proven brightening agents like niacinamide, vitamin C, and tranexamic acid remain the gold standard for treating hyperpigmentation.
Q: Is Spicule Skincare Safe for All Skin Types?
A: Spicule skincare is generally considered safe, but some skin types may be more reactive due to its physical exfoliation and micro-channel formation.
✔ Best for: Normal, combination, and oily skin, as these types typically tolerate exfoliation well.
⚠ Use with caution if: You have sensitive skin, rosacea, or eczema—spicules may cause irritation or disrupt a compromised skin barrier.
🔬 What Science Says:
✔ No long-term safety data exists for repeated use across different skin conditions.
✔ Spicules are biocompatible and gradually removed via skin desquamation [5]
✔ However, their ability to enhance ingredient penetration means actives could cause increased sensitivity, especially in reactive skin types.
Q: Can I Use Spicule Skincare If I Have Sensitive Skin?
A: If you have sensitive skin, consult your dermatologist before using spicule skincare. Since spicules create a physical exfoliation effect, they may trigger redness, irritation, or discomfort, especially if your skin barrier is compromised.
🔬 Scientific Considerations:
- Spicules enhance ingredient penetration, which may increase sensitivity to actives [5].
- No studies specifically examine their effects on sensitive skin, making professional guidance essential.
⚠ Precautionary Measures:
✔ If approved by your dermatologist, start with a low concentration and monitor your skin’s response.
✔ Avoid pairing spicules with AHAs, BHAs, or retinoids, which could intensify irritation.
✔ Always follow with barrier-repairing ingredients like ceramides and panthenol to support skin recovery.
Q: Can I Use Spicule Skincare While Pregnant?
A: There are no specific safety studies on spicule skincare use during pregnancy, so it’s best to consult your doctor before using it.
⚠ Key Considerations:
✔ Increased Skin Sensitivity – Pregnancy often makes the skin more reactive, and the mechanical exfoliation of spicules may amplify irritation.
✔ No Research on Pregnancy Safety – Since spicules enhance ingredient absorption, it’s unclear how this may affect active ingredients during pregnancy.
✔ Avoid Retinoids & Strong Acids – If using spicules, do not combine them with retinoids or aggressive exfoliants, which are not pregnancy-safe.
🔬 Safer Alternatives: Opt for gentle, pregnancy-safe exfoliants like polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), lactic acid, or enzyme-based exfoliants to avoid excessive irritation.
Disclaimer:
This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. While based on scientific research and patents, results may vary by skin type. Consult a dermatologist or healthcare professional before trying liquid microneedling or marine spicules. Discontinue use if irritation occurs. References to studies and patents are for educational purposes and do not imply endorsement. Always conduct patch tests and make informed skincare decisions.
References
- Choi, S., Kim, J. H., Kang, T. H., An, Y. H., Lee, S. J., Hwang, N. S., & Kim, S. H. (2024). Biomimetic marine-sponge-derived spicule-microparticle-mediated biomineralization and YAP/TAZ pathway for bone regeneration in vivo. Biomaterials Research, 28(56). https://doi.org/10.34133/bmr.0056
- Ha, J. M., Lim, C. A., Han, K., Ha, J. C., Lee, H. E., Lee, Y., Seo, Y. J., Kim, C. D., Lee, J. H., & Im, M. (2017). The effect of micro-spicule containing epidermal growth factor on periocular wrinkles. Annals of Dermatology, 29(2), 187–193. https://doi.org/10.5021/ad.2017.29.2.187
- He, W., Zhang, C., Huijung, L., Wu, G., Xiong, M., Peng, H., Chen, M., & Wang, K.-J. (2024). The topical application of Sphistin12-38 in combination with sponge spicules for acne treatment. Preprint on Research Square. https://doi.org/10.21203/rs.3.rs-4158020/v1
- Iriarte, C., Awosika, O., Rengifo-Pardo, M., & Ehrlich, A. (2017). Review of applications of microneedling in dermatology. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 10, 289–298. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S142450
- Kim, T. G., Lee, Y., Kim, M. S., & Lim, J. (2022). A novel dermal delivery system using natural spicules for cosmetics and therapeutics. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 21(10), 4754–4764. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.14771
- Liang, X., Zhang, J., Ou, H., Chen, J., Mitragotri, S., & Chen, M. (2020). Skin delivery of siRNA using sponge spicules in combination with cationic flexible liposomes. Molecular Therapy: Nucleic Acids, 20, 639–650. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.omtn.2020.04.003
- Rieuwpassa, F. J., Tomasoa, A. M., Palawe, J. F. P., Rieuwpassa, F., Mege, R. A., & Balansa, W. (2023). A new and practical method for measuring sponge spicules. Jurnal Ilmiah Platax, 11(2), 322–332. https://doi.org/10.35800/jip.v11i2.47882
- Tansathien, K., Suriyaaumporn, P., Charoenputtakhun, P., Ngawhirunpat, T., Opanasopit, P., & Rangsimawong, W. (2019). Development of sponge microspicule cream as a transdermal delivery system for protein and growth factors from deer antler velvet extract. Biological & Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 42(7), 1207–1215. https://doi.org/10.1248/bpb.b19-00222
- Udompataikul, M., Wongniraspai, M., Showpittapornchai, U., & Jariyapongsakul, A. (2012). The study on effects and safety of Spongilla lacustris in 3% hydrogen peroxide solution on rat skin. Journal of the Medical Association of Thailand, 95(Suppl. 12), S15-S20. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23513460/
- Zhang, C., Duan, J., Huang, Y., & Chen, M. (2021). Enhanced skin delivery of therapeutic peptides using spicule-based topical delivery systems. Pharmaceutics, 13(2119). https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics13122119
- Zhang, K., Yu, L., Li, F. R., Li, X., Wang, Z., Zou, X., Zhang, C., Lv, K., Zhou, B., Mitragotri, S., & Chen, M. (2020). Topical application of exosomes derived from human umbilical cord mesenchymal stem cells in combination with sponge spicules for treatment of photoaging. International Journal of Nanomedicine, 15, 2859–2872. https://doi.org/10.2147/IJN.S249751
- Kwon, T., Jeon, M., Sim, H., Choi, H., & Kim, B. (2023). Method for manufacturing spicules coated with skin-improving ingredients and diamond, and cosmetic composition containing the same (Patent No. KR102404932B1). Korean Intellectual Property Office. https://patents.google.com/patent/KR102404932B1/en
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